How do you control a dog who constantly pulls on the leash?

I am a volunteer at the local PSPCA and the main thing I do is take dogs for walks. A lot of the dogs pull on the leash. I like to learn some tricks to make them stop this so these dogs are more adoptable to potential owners. Also, I ended up with a blister on my hand by the end of volunteering.How do you control a dog who constantly pulls on the leash?
First, try keeping them on a short leash, pat your leg and say ';heel'; or if you don't want to be that formal, just teach them ';stay close';, meaning they don't have to be right at your knee but close enough so they're not pulling you all over the place.





When they start to pull, stop dead. Start all over again with the command and patting your leg. It doesn't hurt to keep talking to them to reinforce the commands. Be sure you use lots of praise when they're not pulling or else they won't know when they're doing it right. It takes repetition and I don't know how much time you have with each dog, but the average dog learns really quickly that he's not really going to go anywhere if he pulls.How do you control a dog who constantly pulls on the leash?
When they pull, give a yank on the leash and stop walking. Make the dog be by your side before you start walking again.





The thing is, you have to do this repetitively for the dog to learn it. And it also helps if they know the command Sit. Given your position and limited time with the dogs, you may just have to put up with them pulling.





Accolades to you on your volunteer work!!
let the dog go the length of the lead and then snatch him back,also turn the other way and he will follow you, have treats in your left hand and get his attention tell him close and let him nibble on the treat,a short lead is no good for a dog that pulls,also you could carry a ball on a string in your hand and make it a game.
its called a choker collar, i LOVE my dog, just like my kids, it does NOT Harm them. It is actually said to be natural, because when they are pups %26amp; the mom disciplines, that is how she does it, a pull to the neck. So yep, go get 1, they are adjustable, so you can take a link out or add 1 for whatever the dog your walking is. JUst put it on, when the dog starts to get in front of you, just a swift firm tug %26amp; say heel! Theyll learn fast, %26amp; it is great on u %26amp; dog, makes a much better walk for the both of you, your not running, its not being strangled!
KEEP HIM OR HER ON A VERY SHORT LEASH A LITTLE BEHIND YOU , REMEMBER TO GIVE THE HEAL COMMAND AND IF THIS DOES NOT WORK A GENTLE LEAD DEFINITELY WILL.
use a halti harness because it controls their head so they can't pull. I know it sounds horrible but my dog has and it is a quick and painless way off getting them not to pull.





If they tug on the lead pull them back quickly and say a sharp no.


hope this helps!!!!!!!!!!





Also you want to get them out of the habit quickly otherwise after a few months when they walk they will walk wonkily and their bottom will stick out at a strange angle.
I am working on this atm with my 2 yr old Aussie.





I was using a retrackable leash but this allows my dog too much range and lets him decide where ';we'; go. After reading Cesar Millan's book, I have learned much about dog behavior and the need to be a pack leader.





Now, when we go for walks, I use a designated collar and leash. A prong collar and a nylong leash that has a loop close to the collar and one at the end.


I started training in the house, where he is less distracted. The dog on my left side, treats in my right hand. I tell him to sit. Once he is down I saw ';HEEL'; and start to walk . . once he starts to come I give him a treat. After a week of working on this in the house, I know he knows what I expect when I say ';HEEL';.





We are still working on it, but it is MUCH better. When we are faced with distractions of other dogs and people, he still wants to pull, and tugs a bit, but not as much as he used to. AND when there are no distractions, he knows to walk beside me, at my pace . . him being not allowed to stop n sniff and pee etc.





Also, if you attmept to go for a walk and you say heel, but he/she does not, then you dont go- do not reward him by still taking him for a walk.. Don't move untill/unless he does what is asked. It will only confuse him.





As I said work in progress, but we are making progress. Good luck to you!
I find a Halti to be one of the best humane ways of controlling a dog that is awkward on a lead. Because it fits over the dogs nose the dog can not pull against it as hard as it can a collar around its neck. It also allows you to have control of the dogs head therefore if you have a dog that spends a lot of time sniffing or easily distracted by people/ traffic you can keep their attention whilst training.
Watch ';The Dog Whisperer'; this is a simple problem to cure....You don't know what your doing, hon, if you have blisters on your hands. Stop volunteering until you get some training.
Choke chains or nylon choke collars are great. My Great Dane used to pull, and so did my Doberman. After using these, the dogs didn't pull. If the problem continues, try ';popping'; the chain - giving the chain a sharp, quick jerk to get your dog's attention.
The easiest way is consistant training. If you pull on the leash and say heel, you need to do that every time they pull and in th esame tone and strerangh. Treats when they do well work great.
believe it or not dogs can feel your energy if your mad,nervous,submissive,they will pull on the leash but if you relax and walk in the pace you want to walk the dogs will eventually be submissive and you'll b dominate over the dogs you have to lead them don't let them lead u hope this helps
Prong collars are the best thing for leashpulling. I had a 120 lb bulldog that would NOT stop pulling - until I bought him a prong collar. They look mean, but they really don't hurt them. They correct the way their mothers corrected them as babies.
It seems really mean but it works.... You have to put one of those collars on that has the spikes on the inside. They don't actually puncture the dog's skin but it keeps them from pulling because they feel them as it starts to pull.
A sharp tug on the leash and the word ';heel';
I have been working as a volunteer at a local rescue also for several years and a year ago I also started working with a dog trainer/behaviorist. Use short tug and releases on the leash. You want the dog at your side and when it is there use praise/treats, what ever you have to use to show that this is what you want. Do not use constant pressure on the lease. If you hold one end of a rope and someone else holds the other end tight your instinct is to pull back. Same thing with a dog. If you have a strong puller, go several steps back and when the dogs gets back to your side start forward again. When you start back tracking the dog will turn to see what you are doing. It takes practice and consistancy, but it works.
In essence what you are trying to do is ';teach'; these shelter dogs to walk at ';heel';. There are many books and videos from famous trainers that teach this. Cesar Milan is the latest guru, but there are others that are just as good.





First thing you need is a good leash (or set of leashes - heavy for big dogs, light for small ones, and maybe one more for those in the middle) that feels good in your hands. Natural leather is very comfortable (better for your hands than nylon). Make sure the leash is no more than 6 feet long. Retractable leashes are great for letting a dog roam about but have no place in a controlled walk.





I would also get yourself some liver treats, either the freeze dried kind or the AKC sells a very good one that crumbles nicely. Keep a bag in your pocket and use the treats to keep the dogs attention on you and not on all the sights and smells of the world. Don't use hard biscuits. They are too big for the purpose and the dogs crunch them into pieces that fall on the ground so they try and stop to pick them up. Remember that the treats are mostly to keep the dogs attention focused on you and your directions.





Finally, I have found from personal experience that while positive reinforcement is great in principle, that in practice my results with that approach have been mixed. If this is something you are really serious about, I'd also get yourself a set of prong collars of different sizes, and match each one with a 6 ft leather leash of the size and weight appropriate for the collar (you don't actually use it at the full 6 feet but kind of double it over in your hands. This lets you use both hands on the leash and the leather is soft against you palm whereas nylon usually has that sharp edge.. The prong collars ';pinch the excess skin around the dogs neck and give a sharp pinch when the dog pulls, but the dog is not harmed.





In the case of own dog, I tried positive reinforcement for weeks and he learned nothing. It took an hour to walk half a mile. I then introduced the prong collar and he was cured in just 2 pulls. He pulled hard once and got pinched and yelped, pulled again more tentatively and again got pinched, and NEVER did that again! 2 pulls 10 seconds and perfection ... wow. I still sometimes need to shorten the leash and hold him with firm but gentle pressure to get him to where he is supposed to be in the heel position, but he does not pull on the leash anymore.





When you hold the leash short and taught so the dogs head is exactly by side (or actually a little forward of your leg), the dogs entire body cannot be anywhere other than in perfect ';at heel'; walking position. With no slack he can't gain momentum and give you any jolts. Very quickly the dog will understand that this is the position he is supposed to be in, and will naturally follow you. Additionally you can use the training treat to put his head exactly where it needs to be, by holding it right where you want him to put his nose. If on the other hand you let him walk out in front he thinks he's leading you, but by your side you are the leader and he follows you (but they explain all that in the books and videos.)





Good luck to you. Just keep in mind that the ones that are the worst will need your help the most, and the ones that are easy, that you will tend to give more time to because it is more enjoyable for you, are the ones that already pay attention and know what to do, and are less in need of your help.





By the way did anyone else READ this persons question? You aren't talking about training your own dog. You are talking about working with shelter dogs. Every day you are meeting new dogs for first time, maybe for the only time. Every day the dogs themselves have to deal with strange inconsistent and confusing situations, not the least of which is that they are scared about being caged and alone in a strange place. This is the worst training environment imaginable.











One more final thought for you. You might find a trainer in your area that might want to help out. They certainly would be able to quickly help you with your skills and technique. It would also be good for the trainer since the results would be good promotion of their services to prospective adoptors. A win win win win win situation. (You - the trainer - the new owners - the shelter - and most importanly, the dogs.)
Buy a few Gentle Leads for the dogs that pull. It's kind of like a muzzle with a leash attatched to it. My boyfriend had one for his giant St Bernard and even his 5 year old could walk her.
Prong collars are better than the chain chokers.. Prong collars allow the dog who pulls too much to ***pinch*** himself... where as a choker does just that.. it chokes them and can potentialy harm the trachea.





Now if you are stuck using a choker.. then.. take a long line and start walking with the dog.. you will be walking in a square about 20 paces each side... walk 20 paces and stop and turn towards the corner you will be going towards. When your dog gets to the end of the line... Turn quickly and walk in the opposite direction.. the dog has just gotten a correction ***not from you*** but because it was away from you... soon they will find the *safe* place to be is at your side.





If you can't do that then whenever they get to the end of the leash... DON'T let them tug you... YOU turn and walk in the opposite direction... make it *bother them*.. not you... Dogs are smart and will soon learn it is not save at the end of the leash... try it... lol





SEW = GOOD LUCK
you pet them and them bring some dog food and bribe them to stop pulling
The prong collar helps, but our retriever mix was quite unruly when we got her from the SPCA in 1998, even with one. Over the years she calmed down, but when we walk near another dog she can still pull your arm out of socket (nearly).
To avoid the blisters use gloves, also have them on a shorter leash. when they pull ahead stop and turn and walk in the other direction. Dogs are pack animals and have a leader, the dog is think it's the leader. by doing that trick they will realize your incharge.